Intake Manifold Leak Symptom and Manifold Gasket Leak Tips
There are many cars that have suffered intake manifold leaks, and still do, so you need to know what intake manifold leak symptoms are like. Also, here are some manifold gasket leak tips to help you.
Ford and GM cars have manifold problems on the V-6s and V-8, in particular; also, there are Mustang manifold problems and GM intake manifold problem on the 3.1 and 3.8 liter engines. In fact, a class action law suit was started against GM by many disgruntled customers. The problem for customers is that the manifolds can leak. Here are some manifold gasket leak tips and details of intake manifold leak symptoms. But first why is there a problem?
There are two reasons why there are these problems: First, they take the coolant through the front of the manifold to get it to the radiator; Secondly, the intake manifolds are molded from plastic.
Plastic manifolds and V-type engines not good idea
The situation is made worse because the engines are V-type units, so the manifold has to for a bridge between the two heads. Although the heads are machined with precision, the angles of the various faces are not always exactly the angle they should be, so when the manifold is bolted down, there is a danger that the manifold is being distorted to fit the faces – this cannot happen with an aluminum manifold.
Mustang manifold problems
This why there are so many mustang manifold problems and GM intake manifold problem. They are all to do with plastic manifolds. Ford, GM and other auto companies went to plastic for intake manifolds to reduce cost and weight, and some cases they did not allow for the problems in the situation. The plastics used can withstand the temperature of the cylinder heads on an in-line engine, but with a V-8 there is a lot of heat coming up to the manifold, which makes it worse. Of course, the under-hood temperatures of modern engines are very high owing to the catalysts. This also makes intake manifold problems more likely.
The other problem is that with a V-type engine you have to take the water from two cylinder heads to one thermostat and then to the radiator. The easy way of doing it is to put some outlets in the side of the head, and put mating passages into the manifold, connecting to the thermostat in a cavity at the front of the manifold.
With an aluminium casting that is a straightforward solution, which simplifies the design, but is still prone to leaks if the faces are not aligned correctly. However, it is a very different matter with plastic, because one end of the manifold has to cope with the temperature fluctuations in the cooling system, and is under attack from any harmful elements in the coolant.
For these reasons, plastic intake manifolds that have water passages built in are prone to cracking. In some cases, Ford has switched back from plastic to aluminum.
Intake manifold leak symptoms
Intake manifold leak symptoms are pretty obvious. If there is a leak in the coolant passages, water or steam will leak out and should be visible either when the engine is idling, or with a puddle that forms when the engine is parked. Take a look underneath when you park the car if in doubt. Other intake manifold leak symptoms include a lowering of the water level in the top tank. If that keeps falling you have a leak somewhere. At least a leak in the manifold is better than a leak in the cylinder head – much cheaper to replace.
If possible replace the manifold with an aluminum one. You can after-market manifolds or manifold spacers that are not only stronger, but can give more power.
Intake manifold leaks can also occur in the actual intake branches, or more likely you have a manifold gasket leak. Here are manifold gasket leak tips. If you have a leak, the engine will be uneven or rough at idle – it just won’t idle smoothly. You may also hear whistling or sucking, as the engine sucks air in through the leak, be it a crack or a leaky gasket.
You can use a vacuum gauge to check the manifold pressure, but an easier way of finding a leak is to get a small propane gas cylinder from a hardware store, and get the engine running. Then you squirt a little gas along the edge of the manifold joint. When you find the leak, the gas will go in through it, and the engine speed will rise, and then be smoother. Now you know where the leak is. Then, you will need to remove the manifold, first draining the coolant system, to correct the problem. I hope you find these manifold gasket leak tips useful.
Leak on top of SBC 350 intake manifold
When check my SBC 350 after driving home from work I find a small pool of antifreeze on the intake manifold near the water neck. It looks like the leak is either from a bad seal between the water neck and the manifold, or from the bottom side of the upper hose where it fits over the water neck.
The manifold is an Edelbrock Performer EPS, and I’ve tried both the original water neck from my ’75 iron manifold, and a replacement water neck from the parts store. I used a stock gasket and some red permatex. Radiator hose is not new, but is in good condition and the clamp is tight.
I’ve had the minor leak for the last couple of years, and I’ve finally decided that I have try harder to get it fixed. I will again use a new gasket and sealer on the water neck and a new radiator hose, but what else should I check? Could the manifold surface be that uneven where the water neck bolts on, or could water be coming through the manifold casting? I don’t want to use any sealer between the hose and the water neck because it will be too hard to replace a hose later on, but is there any other way to improve the seal?
I have a 1999 Yukon 2WD with the 5.7 lt engine. There is coolant leaking out of the intake manifold just behind the alternator. It is coming out of the gasket where the manifold mounts to the engine block. How hard of a project am I getting myself into? I am fairly competent and have worked on a lot of engines in the past when I used to buy/sell used cars. That was 15 years ago and now it looks very complicated. Could I be biting off more than i can chew? Are there any big "pit falls" I need to be aware of? I will not do it myself if I have to disconnect A/C lines.
Thank you!
1996 Mustang GT~2 Interesting Problems!
1) I have an antifreeze leak that seems to be coming from between the engine and tranny. I got underneth and saw it was coming straight down the middle of the engine/tranny mating surfaces. no alien blood on the sides of the engine/tranny mating surfaces, and none on top. I’ve crawled all on top of the engine with it running and off to look at the very back to see if it was coming from a heater hose, or the one that goes under the intake manifold. when I bought it from my friend, he had installed a deeper Ford Racing Intake Manifold, so i wasn’t sure if that was it.
I don’t see any antifreeze in the valley under the intake manifold, either front or back. Logic says that it’s a bad freeze plug on the rear of the motor. BUT, problem is, it only really starts to leak when it gets hot enough to open the thermostat (at least I think so, and from what I observed.) am I right, or anything I missed? alo, how can this happen if all the other steel plugs on the side of the block are fine?
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57 responses so far
I suspect my lower intake is leaking oil between the head and the lower manifold. I’m fouling plugs 2,4and 8 on a brand new SBC. I’m burning oil and the car makes blue smoke at ideal when vacuum is highest..all my plugs on the drivers side are perfect. This engine only has 600 miles on it and after a compression test all 8 came back between 194-201
With a fresh engine theres a few things to consider. First off your still dealing with ring break-in.. although many consider 500 miles break-in enough. That might be true of engine bearings but not todays piston rings. Depending on the type of plating on the rings determines break-in 3-5,000 miles in some cases. Cranking compression numbers can be misleading. I’d like to see running compression test numbers to confirm sealing capability.
Second, being oil fouled on three cylinders at idle could indicate valve guide problems. Missing or damages guides allow valves to tilt sideways and allow oil to be drawn in combustion chamber under high vacuum conditions. Engine vacuum is always highest at idle.
Remember running compression test numbers should be roughly 1/2 of cranking numbers, if not you have some mechanical issues.
have a 99 Ford Tuarus with a 3.0 engine. I have no leaks, oil is clean, but the coolant level keep dropping and having to add every two days or so. I think its blowing out thru the tail pipe, and also the car has a rouh idle. Any ideal what this could be?
Reply:
I assume that the temperature gauge is showing normal when the car is driven. If so, water could still be blown out through the radiator or header tank cap if it is not tight. If coolant is getting into the engine, there should be some signs in the tail pipe. You need to check that when the engine is hot. Rough idle, could be down to carb or plugs. If a little water gets into the cylinder it can actually make the combustion smoother!
My 93 Pontiac Grand Am was leaking antifreeze. took it in, they said that I had a broken intake manifold wire/hose? They repaired it. But now my car idles rough to the point that it acts like its going to shut off when I stop. Or when I have it in Park. While it is idling poorly I smell gas. I’m also burning more gas. My service engine soon light comes on now, which never did before.
Reply:
Sounds like the problem may not be the same one as you had before. If the service light is coming on, the engine needs some attention. There could be a problem with the system that controls fuel delivery during idling.
i have a 1971 gmc with a 307, for the longest time i was puzzled by the fact at every oil change one day later my oil was black, found out today when i inspected the intake, off of the engine of course, the passage for the exhaust to heat the center of the manifold had a large crack blowing hot carbon into my oil, causing all kinds of problems, blown seals, chipped pushrod ends, carboned piston heads, worn valve guides…. and some more costly repairs, got a new edelbrock performer intake and fixed it like new.
I have 97 ford mustang v8 but it has a 96 crown vic engine in it. Unfortunately the intake manifold cracked. I was wondering if its possible to get it fixed or would i have to buy a new one?
You say that the manifold has cracked, in which case it must be aluminum. You could get it welded up, but it would distort during welding, and then might need heat treatment and skimming. So, the answer is that it is best to get a new manifold, or a sporty one if you prefer.
John
I’d definately check your water pump. get the car hot and use a mirror w/ flashlight. check for a slow drip @ lower weep hole(drivers side) (on w/p) and/or check for a small crack in the overflow tank. pressure test would be best. 3.0 L fords EAT water pumps. I have changed quite a few. had this happen on 03 escape 3.0l with a “mystery coolant leak”. good luck!
My check engine light went on, and so I took it in for an oil change (quick change place) and they noticed I was down 2 qts of antifreeze.
Fast forward 1 week and I took it to the dealer for the Winstar bracket recall and to have them check the light as well. They told me it was the “dreaded leaky gasket” $500.
Does this seem about right for cost? Seems awefully high for a gasket valve that from what I was reading is made from plastic.
Hi Trish,
Yes, this seems a lot to me. Obviously, there is a leak. For that price I would expect a new manifold to be fitted. If it just a gasket, that should cost about $10, I would think, and maybe $100 labor at the most. Ask them exactly what they are going to do for that.
John
have a 2001 dodge dakota 3.9 L. Replaced head gaskets,even replaced one craked head.problem is it ran hot the other day and no water in the water reservoir,no visible leaks,but alot of steam coming from tailpipe,smell a little antifreeze.also sometimes hear a whistling sound when driving and then it goes away.also saw a little tanish brown oil on oil cap.please help.
Wendy,
If there is no water in the reservoir, the engine is either leaking or boiling a lot. Did you check the temperature gauge? If it went up into the red or obviously hot, then there is a problem. Assuming there is no misfire, the gaskets and heads should be ok. However, you get a lot of steam in the exhaust when water is leaking into the combustion chamber or cylinders. This could happen because there is a crack in the other cylinder head, in the combustion chamber, or in the cylinder block. Most likely in the head, but could also be in the intake manifold if the coolant is passed from the cylinder head through the intake manifold to the radiator, which is very common. I would get than checked first.
Regards,
John
We tried to put a new thermostat in a 2002 Ford Taurus. Long story short, we broke the thermostat housing and had to get a replacement. After placing the thermostat in the new housing with a new gasket, it still leaked (quite a bit!) Now car is at the repair garage and they say that the piece that the thermostat housing attaches to (lower intake manifold?) is cracked and needs to be replaced. Is $1500 a reasonable estimate? Could this be done by a person who knows a little about cars? Not us!
This is certainly a job that anyone who knows a bit about cars could do. It involves draining the coolant, removing the parts, and replacing the gaskets and cracked parts. Normal tools would be ok, so if you have a friend who can do some work on cars he should be able to do it for you. $1,500 seems a lot to me, but I don’t know how much the part would cost.
Good luck,
John
I have a 1998 olds cutlas ciera. 3.1 v6. My car just started over heating and then water in the oil. engine would die when driving and would not restart right away. after sitting overnight it started up like normal. would that be possibly an intake manifold problem.
Hi Larry,
This sounds a bit serious. It could be a manifold leak, and it would be best to check that first. Also, the gasket may be leaking, or there may be other problems, which would involve removing the heads. Try the manifold first, though.
Regards,
John
I have an 04 3.8 Regal with only 75K miles. The radiator is low on coolent every week or so. I don’t see dripping and the oil looks OK. If the manifold gaskets are bad where is the coolent going? The car runs fine and doesn’t smoke. My mechanic who I trust says it needs new manifold gaskets upper and lower. He says about $700 for this job. Is that fair? Do you reccommend going to an aluminum manifold? If so, how much is the part? I need the car to be right. I’m giving it to my 18 year old to take to college.
Thanks!!!
Hi Peter,
If you are losing coolant, the first thing to check is the radiator or coolant tank filler cap. If it is a pressure cap, which is normal, you need to make sure it is pressurising sufficiently. They usually do. However, you can lose a little coolant through the overflow.
If that is ok, then the problem could be manifold gaskets. If they are leaking the water will run down onto the cylinder block and evaporate on the block which is hot, but should leave stain marks, which may be difficult to see. Check that first. If you do need new gaskets, the coolant has to be drained, the air intake system removed, and then the manifolds. Not a difficult job, and I wuold think $700 is a bit on the high side.
Hope this helps,
John
I have a 1999 Ford Explorer OHV 6 cyclinder engine. For at least a couple years now I have had teo CEL codes P0171 & P0174 (exhaust too lean on bank1 , bank2). http://www.obd-codes.com mentions several possible causes. I’ve already tried the easier ones (cleaned MAF sensor, replaced PVC valve, replaced fuel filter). I still get the P0171 & P0174 codes. More clues to my problem…I seem to be losing coolant somewhere. I cannot find any coolant leaks, but when the engine is hot I can usually smell it, so I suspect it is leaking somewhere onto a hot surface and burning up. Also, plug #4 seems to go bad quickly, like every 6 to 9 months. Could this be intake or exhaust manifold and / or gasket issue?
Mark again…typo in second sentence…should read “…I have had TWO CEL codes P0171 & P0174.
Also, I wanted to include the information that prior to the latest dead #4 plug, the engine starts easy but idles very rough until it warms up, then it seems to run mostly fine until I try to accelerate to highway speed. Going from 35 to 65 there is alot of hesitation. I have not driven it since I found the #4 plug to be bad once again.
Hi Mark,
Mark,
The problem you describe is pretty complex, and not that easy to answer correctly from a long distance. You would need to be sure that the #4 plug is functioning correctly first. Usually, if you can smell coolant, you have a leak, but it could from the pressurised cap, the radiator, a hose or the manifolds.
There should not be a leak, of course. If the manifold gasket is leaking, you should be able to see where the coolant has dried. On a V-6 engine this will be between the cylinders, but on an inline 6, the coolant does not usually go through the manifold. I guess you need someone to look at this, particularly as you’re suffering from rough running. Sorry, I can’t be more helpful.
John
I have a 2002 Buick Century and have had no real problems with this car since buying in new. However, I recently noticed the “check engine soon” light came on and stayed on. The mechanic I took it to replaced a sensor in the fuel tank for $189.00. Light is now out.
During this same time, a light came on “coolant level low”. It came on only once and did not stayed on. I explained this to the mechanic as well. When fixing the sensor issue, he checked the coolant issue and noticed that the intake maniford gasket was leaking and should be replaced. He said he could fix this for $600.00. My car runs very smooth and appears to have no problem. The mechanic suggested I not drive the car very much until this problem is corrected. Do you think $600 is a reasonable repair cost for replacing an intake manifold gasket?
Ben
Hi Ben,
I would not worry about driving short distances with a leaking gasket for short distances (30 minutes), but you should check the water level regularly.
I also think $600 is a bit much for replacing the gasket. I would think $300-400 is more reasonable.
John
2001 malibu Ls 120,000 miles. runs really good when its running. I just found out i need to have the heads repaired for the 4th time in a year. I have not let this car run hot. Dont know what to do anymore.
$400 is normal for the area im from. CHEVY messed up with this car BIGTIME. I have looked over I know 500 complaints about the same problem with the malibu. Im sure there are alot more.
Hi Amanda,
When you say heads repaired do you mean new gaskets? If so that is very bad indeed. There can be a problem with the coolant GM recommends corroding the gasket. Maybe you could try another coolant mix, and get the heads skiimed to make sure they are seating properly. Also, you could phone around and try to find a mechanic who knows how to handle this problem.
Regards,
John
Hi I have a 2002 Jeep liberty with a 3.7 liter V6. It’s got 107,000 miles on it.
I got an error that the #6 plug was misfiring so I replaced the plugs. When I did I noticed #6 was dirtier than the rest. Compression test showed #6 cylinder about 30-35% higher than the other cylinders which were all within normal limits.
My suspicion was that the intake manifold is leaking. When I went in to take it apart, I noticed 4 things
1. There was very little coolant in the system, probably losing it slowly for 6 months. (not positive, daughters car)
2. The intake manifold bolts were not anywhere near as tight as they should be .
3. Slight evidence of coolant in the oil but not overwhelmingly convincing.
4. There appears to be a small amount of oil leaking from the intake manifold into the top of the #6 spark plug cavity.
I dont know if this intake manifold carries water as I dont really see where there are any places for water to go and I’m not sure exactly how it works.
Any ideas? I am grateful for whatever you can offer to help me decide if I should just replace the intake manifold gaskets, or continue on and remove the heads.
Thanks very much,
Bob
Hi Bob,
I’m pretty certain that this V6 does not have the coolant flowing through it, as there is a separate aluminum elbow at the front of the engine. So water leaking into the cylinders is not likely, not from the manifold joint anyway.
The oil in the spark plug well may not be from the manifold but from the cam cover joint. As the bolts were loose, and the engine was low on coolant, I would recommend rebuilding with new gaskets and making sure that the bolts are tightened correctly.
regards,
John
Hello,
I have a 1998 oldsmobile eighty-eight ls. Do these cars traditionally have problems with intake manifolds? I went in or an oil change and came in three days later for service on the transmission (fluid/filter), was hooked up to a electronic system and was told I had a leak without being able to see the electronic output. I am suspicious of this place to begin with, but I don’t want to let it pass without investigating it to be sure. While non of the symptoms are present: hissing, rough idle, etc. What is a sure fire way to identify a problem with an intake manifold in this type of car?
I would greatly appreciate any help you can give.
John
Hi John,
I wouldn’t say that engine was prone to manifold problems compared with some other GM engines. However, if it leaks water into the engine that is bad news, and could be expensive.
If you don’t have any confidence in the workshop where you took it, I would get someone else to look at it – someone who will show you the results, and say why they think that shows the work is necessary.
Regards,
John
I have a 2001 Saturn SL2 1.9 engine, and my ‘Service Engine Soon’ light came on yesterday. After running diagnostics on it from the local auto-shop, I was told I have an intake manifold leak. However, they were not able to find a part for it anywhere locally, and admitted that the work would be very labor intensive (4-5 hrs) to do.
I have a few questions:
1) Per the cost of getting it replaced, if it was not replaced how long can you see things like this running (a ‘drive it into the dirt kind of thing) and what precautions would you take to prolong it?
2) Are there any online website you can suggest to try and find the part?
3) How hard of a job is it to replace this? I myself am only bare minimums car care (oil, alternator, tires, etc.), but have friends that know more than I (but have most likely not done this specificly). I guess what I’m asking is would a “professional” shop/tools be needed to do this, or just someone w/ the right directions, etc, make this change.
Thanks,
A
Hi Adam,
Replacing an intake manifold is not that difficult. You have to disconnect the air filter and connection, and you may need to drain the coolant, but that is not always necessary in a four-cylinder enigne. I would do it anyway – drain it into a bowl so you can see what it is like. It is worth renewing the coolant and anti-freeze though.
After that you need to remove the manifold, but make sure any wires that are connected are removed, and if the thermostat housing is in the manifold, take that out as well. Just be methodical and mark everything that is not obvious what it is and where it came from. Preferably, get someone to help who has worked on cars before.
How will you know if there is a problem with the manifold? It might be cracked, in which case either replace it or you could seal the crack up. If it’s aluminum, it could be welded up – but by a Very experienced welder. You can also a good quality sealant material in addition to the gasket if you are not sure whether it is leaking. Hope this helps.
John
my son has a 95 buick lasabre, the other day it overheated and stopped on him, we put antifreeze in and filled the radiator, it started and then had smoke coming out of the exhaust, it died and will not start, now when you turn it over it smells like gas in water coming out the exhaust. any suggestions on the problem?
Hi Bob,
This is a difficult one. It might have blown a head gasket, which would allow water into the cylinders. It depends how long you left it. It was a while, quite a lot of coolant could get into the cylinders which could prevent it from starting.
One thing you could do is to take a plug or two out, turn it over on the starter motor, and see if water comes out – drops probably.
If he let it get very hot, the engine could have seized up, which would probably mean you need a replacement engine, if the car is worth it.
Hope this helps,
John
Hi John,
I have a 97 cavalier 2.4 I think i may have a intake manifold gasket leak or something. When I drive my car for a short distance and park it and shut it off for about 20 mins. Ill go back out to start it and sometimes it wont start. and when it does its rough and sometimes dies a short time later. i can here a whistle sound as if air is leaking out of the intake manifold. my check engine light is on as well. it usually only does this in the hot weather. any other ideas as of what this could be? also crappy gas mileage now.
Tim,
It is difficult to say what the problem is. If it won’t start when the engine is warm, but not up to running temperature, there could be a problem with the engine management system (or automatic choke). If the engine check light keeps coming on, you need to find out why. This means a visit to a garage with suitable test equipment, I’m afraid. Make sure you get the print-out of the results, so you can ask about it.
Regards,
John
I have a 2.0 inline 4 DOHC from a 99 neon RT, it has been overheating due to coolant loss, I know so because after a ride of overheating, I’ll fill it the next day and it won’t want to overheat. Also, there is no obvious leaks, or smoke giving me a detection of where I am loosing coolant. I saw some brownish residue above the thermostat/ below the radiator cap. There are some bubbles in the coolant flow, but they seem to stop after the engine warms. About the same time I had the overheating problems, the car was hesitant at start, but would start with a blip of the throttle. I took out spark plugs 1-3 and # 4 is stipped in, but no signs of coolant. I do hear an unusual slurping noise/ hissing coming from a line going from the intake manifold to the valve cover, could a bad intake manifold gasket cause these symptoms? It is a cast manifold, and looks like it runs from the head, to the thermostat, to the radiator. Does this sound like intake, head gasket, or what? I’m going nuts over here! thanks in advance.
Hi Tyler,
This sounds tricky! However, the pipe from the valve cover to the intake manifold would be a crankcase breather. In the old days, there was a vent in the cover, but for years now the fumes have had to be recirculated. This is not likely to influence anything.
I suspect there is more than one problem here. If has overheated several times, the question is whether that has caused any warping of the cylinder head, which could lead to water leaks, but you should be able to see a stain on the side of the block. Also, if you can’t get one plug out, it may be in very bad condition making the engine more difficult to start. I would want to find a way to get that plug out with some easy-out lubricant. A new set of plugs are always a good thing if you’re having trouble starting.
If the manifold gasket is leaking coolant could be going into the cylinders, which is very bad news, so I recommend you take the manifold off (need to drain the coolant, of course) and put a new gasket on.
Regards,
John
I have a 93 suburban, 1/2 ton, 2wd, 350, auto, 230K. I have an intake leak on the passenger side (Just discovered). I have been adding antifreeze for months not realizing the problem. I am somewhat mechanical and have all the tools. Is this something I can do on my own? I do simple things like tune-ups and oil changes so I’m considering taking on this challenge. I’d hate to loose my truck!
Hi Becky,
I guess this is the 5.7 liter V-8. It is not so difficult to remove and replace the manifolds through which the coolant goes. It is a good idea to tighten the fasteners with a torque wrench to the correct settings, but not essential with these fasteners – they need to be tight but not too tight!
You need to drain all the coolant out first, because if there is any coolant left in it it could get into the cylinders. So do make sure you get it all out.
Then, remove the air intake system to the carb. Just take everything off that seems to be in the way of getting at the fasteners that hold the manifold on. The only new parts you really need are the gaskets, but it is a good idea to renew the thermostat of an engine of that age.
The faces of the manifold can be cleaned with fine emery paper, but you need to make sure it is cleaned well afterwards before you reassemble. Also, check that all the hoses are in good condition.
As you haven’t done the job before, you want to be methodical, and make notes as you go, so you’ll remember when you come to reassemble. Good luck,
John
So I bought a 99 v6 camaro 3800. It doesnt smoke. It has water in oil cause its milky. The guy said it ran perfect and that it started idleling rough. My question is could it be just the intake gasket since that’s what happens when it idles rough? Can water get in when you have a bad intake gasket.? Thanks eddie
Hi Eddie,
Yes, water can get into the cylinders if the intake gasket is leaking from above or very close to the intake port. If you get water in the cylinder, the exhaust is likely to have some white smoke, especially when after starting the first time in the morning. It could also be a head gasket, but you would not be wasting much time or cash in changing the manifold gaskets and checking that the manifold faces were not warped first.
Regards,
John
Hi, I have a 2000 V6 3.4L Pontiac Grand Am and they told me that the lower intake manifold gasket needs replacing as it leaks. So far I never had the car temperature above 200 even though I noticed that the coolant needs top up once in a while. In the price quote they also say that includes R&I Plenum and Fuel injectors. What is this? They ask me about $900. Is this price reasonable?
Thanks
George
George,
When an intake manifold leaks it lets very little water out, so you are not usually going to run out really low on coolant. This is why occasional topping up keeps the coolant level up.
They need to remove the intake manifold and plenum chamber, and they think you need new injectors, which is possible on an engine of that age. Not sure if they are talking about replacing the plenum chamber,or just removing and resealing it with new gaskets.
If only gaskets and injectors are needed, this price is near the top end, but not outrageous. I recommend getting another quote for the job, and would get the job done.
Regards,
John
I have a 2004 pontiac grand am gt, 3.4 L/ 6 cylinder. It seems to have a over heating problem. The thermostat is good, so is the water pump. I dont get any air when I trying bleeding it from the top fitting. I dont have any bubbles coming out of the coolant reservoir. I did notice a little moisture behind the gooseneck by the intake manifold. The is no coolant in the oil and there is no oil in the coolant. The coolant sensor seem to check out fine and it was getting proper voltage. I am running dex coolant in it. I suspect that i have exhaust gases leaking into the collant. Will know more when I get the testing kit
Michael,
Have you checked the radiator for leaks? Also, the moisture behind the gooseneck is probably the sign of a leak. Do you have to top up coolant frequently?
John
I had to add some today so that is pretty telling. The testing kit came up with a lighter shade of blue when i did it twice on the car. To make sure I compared it with the bottle, definately lighter. The only thing i can think off, if its a intake manifold leak it shouldnt turn the fluid a different color because its only air and fuel in there in there. Right?
I think the colour has to change from blue to red doesn’t ? A lighter shade doesn’t mean anything if this is a litmus test. Otherwise, not sure what it is, but as a rule these testers have to change color dramatically.
John
The tester basically says if it goes from blue to blue/green to yellow there are gases in the coolant. Im using a Napa test kit. With the deep blue liquid. Wouldnt the color vary due to the amount of gases in the coolant? Or is this, there is a gas present and it shows a green to yellow color? So im assuming that any color other than the bottles indicates a leak. Even if a very small one.
Reread instructions for the block combustion leak tester. I see what happened, if its a diesel it might turn yellow/green if positive. Thats what gave me the impression of any color variation is a positive. I guess i have a intake manifold leak or blockage some where in the cooling system. Im using the dreaded Dex coolant in this car. Thanks for the advice, you just saved me a day in labor.
just bought a 2000 v6 Camaro. I smelled burning coolant and my check engine light came on. I looked at my coolant and it was brown and clumpy. What’s going on?
Hi Scot,
Brown and clumpy coolant suggests that the coolant has not been changed for a long time, and possibly the car has not been maintained well – check for a service record of some sort. Burning coolant is a sign of a leak, which could be from the manifold or the thermostat housing, a hose or the radiator. You need to look all over, and you should see signs of coolant somewhere. Also, check while the engine is running.
Sounds like you definitely need to drain, flush and refill the coolant, once you have found the leak and got that sorted.
Regards,
John
Hi, I have a Nissan Altima 2000 that runs a little bit over 100,000 miles. The service engine soon light was on and off, and I brought it to a repair shop this morning. They called and told that they intake gasket needed to be replaced, and it’s very labor-intensive, requiring about 6-hour work. Altogether, it will cost around 500-550 dollars. Is this a reasonable estimate? Thank you.
Hi Yolanda,
Yes, there are quite a few things to be taken off before they can get to the intake manifold, and of course the coolant system has to be drained, etc. Maybe they could do it in 4 hours, but with a car of that age it takes time to loosen all the fasteners, etc, so their quote is probably not far off.
Regards,
John
I just had my 2001 S-10 intake manifold replaced. When I went to pick up the truck up it cranks really rough now. Almost like the starter is having trouble turning over then the motor cranks. What could cause this after the repair shop replaced the gasket. Is something else messed up or did they not hook something up?
Hello Tom,
No reason for it to crank really roughly after that work.I would take it back and get them to look at it. Could be that the earth is not connecting properly, but it’s hard to be sure from what you say.
Ask them to check it out. If they are a decent outfit thy will do that free of charge, and make sure it is like it was when you took it in.
Good luck,
John
I have a 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.8 and i saw the other they that its liking oil on to the exhoust monifold and starts to smell like burn oil and im worried cuz I lately have to clean that cuz last week it catched on fire and burned some of the spark plug cables but the car still runs but I dont really know what the problem is…
Hi Josian,
Thanks for your question. Most likely there is a leak from the cylinder head cover, and it is dripping oil onto the exhaust manifold. You need to replace those plug leads, but first you need to find the leak and replace the gasket if it is leaking from the cover. Otherwise, look around the engine for oil stains. You should be able to see where it is leaking, and then you will have to fix it. Probably a gasket.
Regards,
John
I have a 1995 Olds Cutlass Supreme I just purchased a week ago. I noticed that the thermostat is running hot and I’ve had to add water in the radiator several times. I had a pressure test done on the cooling system.
They showed me the leak and say I need to replace my intake manifold gasket. I had them write me up a quote and left. I realized I could order the part(s) online and then have a mechanic replace it.
I have the part numbers on the quote they gave me, but I can’t locate them anywhere online. How do I know what parts to order? HELP!
Hi,
The only thing you would need to order would be the manifold gasket set. There are two or three gaskets in the set. All you need to do is search for intake manifold set 1996 Olds Cutlass Supreme in google and you will find some (also try http://www.epinions.com)
At the same time, I would fit a new thermostat.
Hope this helps,
John
Hi! I have a 1998 Ford Windstar. I know that I have a coolent leak, the problem is I don’t know where it is. When you get out of the car or you run the heat, you can smell it and sometimes it smokes. I was told during an oil change that there was coolent “everywhere” underneath, but never see anything on the ground. The tail pipe also has water coming out of it after you park. I took it to an auto place nearby and they said it was the intake manifold. My father-in-law says it sounds like a head gasket. Any ideas? The car starts up, runs fine, doesn’t overheat. Thanks!
Hi Rachel,
If the engine starts ok, and runs fine, without any loss of power, the problem is more likely to be a manifold gasket leak, but it could be a head gasket. However, if there is a lot of water leaking, and otherwise there are no problems, I would get someone to look at the intake manifold gasket first. This is a simpler job than changing the head gasket which can be expensive.
Hope this helps,
John
I have a 1980 chevy impala with a short block 350. I have oil in my coolant fluid and a blue colored smoke coming from my tail pipe on the driver side. What could b the cause of this. Intake gasket or the head gasket. There is no milky substance on my dip stick. But im losing coolant (dont see a leak external) an it bubbles back into the reserve tank with the color being brown and smelling burnt.
Hi Dion,
Lete’s goo through these symptoms. Oil in the coolant could be a cracked cylinder head, but that is not very likely. Blue smoke in the exhaust means that the engine is burning oil, which is likely on a 30-year old engine. That is not in itself serious, as it is things like worn piston rings or cylinders. The coolant bubbling back into the header tank suggests that a head gasket is leaking, so that the compression pressure is getting into the coolant passages between the head and block. I think a head gasket is the most likely problem here.
Hope this helps,
John
I have a 3400 pontiac montana. I changed the intake gaskets and have oil at the throtal body. it was over heatting that is why i changed the intake gaskets. not over heatting any more but still have oil at the throtal body.still have steam out the tail pipe. I presserd tested and holds pressure in the system.could this be a bad head.I dont have coolant in the oil.
Hi Otto,
Is the sdteam coming fromthe tail pipe when the engine is cold or hot? If it when the engine is cold that is OK, but if it is doing when hot, the problem is an internal leak. This could be from a bad head gasket or a warped head or a cracked head. It also depends how much steamis coming out.
As for the oil in the throttle body, that is a real puzzle. It sounds like there is an oil passage in the body, and somehow oil is leaking from that, through a crack in the body.
Hope this helps,
Regards,
John
i have a 1997 lumina 3.1 v-6
on my way home i experienced rough idle at stops. my low coolant light came on. temp gauge was o.k.
about 1/2 mile from home the temp gauge rose way up, but not to the red mark and then went back to normal.
once i got home i popped the hood and i could hear a “hisssss” like a vacuum leak. it was coming from the top back of the engine.
i popped the radiator cap and over flow tank and it appears i have oil in the coolant. both the tank and radiator were low. i did not notice coolant in the oil.
i suspect leaking intake gasket.
may i get your thoughts and your thoughts on possible price for repair? will be getting quotes tomorrow.
thanks
Hi Brian,
There are lots of things that can cause a rough idle, including faulty plugs, and other ignition problems. However, as this was temporary, it is probably to do with a leak somewhere. When the temp gauge went up were you cruising along? Or in traffic? Does it overheat when you get stuck in traffic? This could have been one of those intermittent situations, unless you were cruising at a steady speed, in which case it points to a coolant problem.
I would check the fan belt or drive the water pump first. The mian thing you found was that you have been losing coolant. Thiscould be through the intake manifold gasket, and it could be leaking into the ports, which is not good. Looks like you should get the manifold gaskets replaced, or at least checked out.
If the job involves draining the engine, removing the intake system and manifold, plus electronics, and then cleaning up the faces and fitting new gaskets you are looking at 3-5 hours work I think, so it depends on the hourly rate in your area, plus parts, which are less than $100, unless there is a problem with the manifold, which could be cracked or warped. That’s not so unlikely.
John
john
it was definitely a intake leak, and a major one. mechanic said it sounds like i may have ruined the bearings. on start up it knocked for a bit and then quits. i have antifreeze in the oil. its just a total mess. its not worth the cost for me to get a new motor in a car thats 14 years old. a local dealership gave me $1k for it as a trade in.
thanks for your help, i appreciate it.
Brian,
Sorry to hear about your troubles, but you are right. It is not worth spending that much an old car.
Regards,
John
I have a 99 lincolon Town Car. When it’s cold it cuts of when you put it into drive or reverse. Once it warms up it runs good. I have been quoted $1200.00 to fix the problem by replacing the intake maifold. What do you suggest??
Hi Curt,
The fact that the engine runs when hot but not cold shows that something is preventing the fuel from igniting, and the thing most likely to do that is water. The reason is that the combustion power is greater in a hot engine, so it can burn off thhat something which is probably water. Also, when cold, the engine has been at rest, so some water gets into the combustion chambers and sits there. When hot, it gets evaporated. I wwould expect to see some white smoke or steam coming out of the exhaust.
The chances are that they gave you the correct diagnosis. I would have thought their quote was a bit on the highh side, so I would shop around and see if you can get a better deal. Hope you can.
Meanwhile, don’t let this stop you having a Happy Christmas!
John
Hi I have a 1975 Holden Gemini and water is leaking from the intake manifold, it appears the plugs have deteriated. There is no water in the oil which is good. But how bad and expensive would the replacement be?
Hi Suzanne,
Well, my guess is that almost any repair on a car that old will be more expensive than it is worth, especially on a small one. However, that 1.6 liter four-cylinder engine was a pretty reliable unit in its day.
When you say the plugs have deteriorated, are you referring to the spark plugs or plugs in the manifold to seal the ends? If it is the spark plugs, I would recommend replacing them anyway, and if it is the sealing plugs, they definitely could be replaced very cheaply. It might be worth looking to see if you can find an engine or intake manifold at a breakers.
Regards,
John
Thanks John,
I’ve taken the car in and it’s the seal plugs. It’s going to cost me $250 because they have to take off the air filter and other stuff to get to it. It’s mainly the labour I’m paying for and not the parts as such. I think if I had not of done my homework and went there sounding somewhat car savvie it may have cost more. But any way my car is worth it and I’m happy I can keep it on the road.
Great car those geminis.
Hi Suzanne,
You’re right that Gemini was a great car! The quote sounds about right, because as you say there is a lot of stuff to take off first, and on an older car things don’t always come off easily.
Enjoy your Gemini!
Best,
John
MY FORD EXPLORER ’97 ‘s thermostat gauge was going up fast after i have driven about 3 miles but not up to the red mark. I filled with water the radiator and the gauge hand came down to the middle.It is winter and when I turned on the heater, the car was not heating up. I brought my car to the Galpin Ford and the adviser told me the intake manifold was broken and the head gasket is brolen and we have to change the motor. He said the engine is gone. The car is 247700 miles. I bring it to ford for maintenance regularly. I asked how much would it cause to fix the car. The adviser said he will have to change the motor with remanufactured motor from Ford with 3 years unlimited warranty and it will cost me $4700 plus other things that they may see when they take the engine out. How much do you think is reasonable and acceptable. If i do not go to a Dealer, how much do you think it will cost me
I got a 97 gt mustang I had the motor rebuilt and I put an aftermarket intake manifold on it and when I start the car I have to give it gas to start it and when I let off the gas it dies out could this b caused by a vacuum leak
Hi Alice,
247000 miles is quite a lot, and I can believe that there may be a problem with the manifold and gasket on an engine of that age and mileage.If you get a small service shop to do the job they will charge less labor, but they might have to charge more for the motor than the main dealer. You would need to ask them how much the motor cost, and how much was labor to be able to judge if they were asking a fair price. The labor should be less than the cost of the motor. Ask that question and see what answer you get.
All the best
John
Hi Chris,
It sounds a bit more like fuel starvation to me. Check the fuel system, and also see if it worse when hot or cold. Of course, you need to make sure that the manifold is seated well, and sealed up by the gasket. Check that, but mainly check that fuel is getting into the engine.
I hope this helps.
Regards,
John